HISTORY OF THE TARTAN

Native to Scotland, the tartan is a plaid that is specific to a clan, family or district The word "tartan" is derived from the French 'Tartaine' which refers to a type of cloth, regardless of colour. The more accurate Gaelic term would be 'Breacan', which is Gaelic for 'Chequered' or 'Variegated'. The black and white checkered tartan worn by shepherds (see below) may have been the original design. This design style was common not only in the Highlands but also in Ireland, among the Britons and the European Celts. The origin of modern tartan is the subject of much contention. Many clan tartans were invented in the 18th and 19th centuries and few date beyond 1745. These were more likely, regional tartans rather than family ones. It is also possible that the number of colours in early tartan related to individual status within a clan; the more colours the higher the rank. In tracing the history and development of tartan we have to examine the history of Scottish dress, resulting in the modern kilt. Gaelic tribes made the journey from Ireland and settled in Argyllshire in the 7th century, creating the kingdom of Dalriada. They wore a shirt, or 'Leine Croich', loose and brightly coloured, and a mantle or 'Brat'. This garment more closely resembled Greek traditional dress. In France, the Scots were seen on their way to the Holy Lands, as Guibert of Nogent wrote between 1104 and 1112: "You may see the Scots�. Barelegged with their shaggy cloaks, a scrip hanging down 'Ex Humeris', coming from their marshy homelands". The 'Scrip' in question is an early form of sporran. As the technology of weaving improved, two distinct materials developed; one a soft cloth or 'Brecan' worn by the women, and the other coarser, called 'Cath-Dath' (War Colour) for men. This was an important distinction since the Highlander's muted kilt was an early form of camouflage.

By the 16th century the Highlander was wearing a plaid &endash; the origin of modern Highland dress. The plaid was one piece of cloth, five feet by sixteen. The Highlander's dressing routine was a complex one; it began with laying his belt on the ground, then the plaid over this. He would then gather the plaid, lie on it, and pull the belt around his waist. The remaining material could be worn loose at the back, over the shoulder and fastened or, on extreme weather, over the head as a cape. In fact the sheer adaptability of the plaid was a marvel in itself. To the Highlander it was an all weather garment. At night, it became his home when sleeping outside, and his blanket roll in warmer climes. Indeed, much admiration has been heaped upon the Highlander and his resilience. His ability to survive a Scottish winter in only a few yards of cloth was legendary. This was not traditional Scottish masochism, the shortage of dress being more the result of a shortage of sheep Their population in the Highlands was not as it is now and wool was scarce, dressing in layers would have been a luxury. The evolution of tartan as we would recognise it began around the 16th century. Many illustrations from this period display a tartan of sorts, though without the regular pattern or 'Sett' that is the hallmark of modern designs, and certainly not relating to specific clans. Chiefs painted in this period are portrayed sporting several different tartans in one ensemble. It is true that there was some regional variation and some larger clans began to adopt colours specific to their area. It was on the subject of colour that tartan ran into its first major problem, in particular with John Knox. The bright colours were deemed inappropriate for God fearing folk and the clergy were banned from wearing them, the congregation was frowned upon too and in Aberdeen a woman wearing plaid outdoors was considered to be 'Wanton'.

The making of tartan fabric requires carding and combing the wool to smooth out the tangled fibres, spinning and colouring the yarn which then goes on a winding machine which winds the threads onto a bobbin and a creel and warp wheel as it sets out the thread in the correct order for the tartan pattern.

The following are examples of some of the tartans associated with our own family's various clans.

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